Trends and customs come and go but none has become ingrained in the fabric of Santa Maria culture like the tradition of barbecue.

On the right week, Broadway resembles a giant tailgate party, with barbecues raging in parking lots and infusing the air with the unmistakeable aroma of sizzling tri-tip.

Tourists quickly learn clouds looming over the city's main thoroughfare aren't Los Angeles smog or the fumes from a California wildfire - that's salt-seasoned smoke whipping off a congregation of makeshift grills.

Visitor books have begun to mention the city for wine, but they always begin their Santa Maria entry with the subject of barbecue.

Read more at http://www.santamariatimes.com/articles/2006/02/13/news/local/news01.txt.